Mounting and Aligning a  TuffHead Single Bevel broadhead


Our thanks go to Jim Brandenburg for this helpful article on properly aligning the TuffHead...

 


Mounting and Aligning the Tuffhead

When setting up my broadhead arrows, I have already tuned and established the weight I want the head to be. For that reason, I normally sharpen new broadheads first before weighing them with adapters. I add additional weight as needed to get them all as close as possible to the same weight.

I built an alignment jig using rollers taken off an arrow saw. The two pairs of rollers are 8" apart and the distance from the front rollers to the front reference point needs to be just enough so the broadhead and footing are ahead of the rollers.




You can also make one of wood or metal with "V" blocks instead of rollers. It doesn't have to be elaborate.

A piece of masking tape is placed on the front angle, to establish a reference point. Use a field point in one of the exact size shafts you will be aligning,to establish the reference point. Spinning the shaft will tell you if the point is true, if not,get one that is. I then use a marker to make the reference point more visible.


Now I weigh out the components. For this setup, I need a 405 gr broadhead/adapter. I am using a 300 gr Tuffhead, 100 gr adapter and a tiny ball of tungsten putty to bring the weight to 403 grs. The epoxy glue used will be approximately 2 grs so that will bring the head right about 405 grs.



Now I prepare the surfaces for glueing,by roughing them up with a Scotchbrite pad and cleaning with alcohol. The ball of tungsten putty is pushed into the adapter's cavity. I'm also waxing the arrow footing and end of the insert before screwing in the insert. Since there is a small gap between the Tuffhead ferrule and the footing, I'm going to let the epoxy fill that in when I glue the head on the adapter. The paste wax,acts as a separator so that I can still unscrew the head after the epoxy sets.

I also like to mount my broadhead blade horizontally so I do a dry fit, without glue and establish a mark on the footing to line up with, once glued.



The epoxy I'm using is a fast set,paste epoxy that sets in about 6-10 minutes so I glue and align one broadhead at a time. I apply a liberal amount of epoxy to the adapter as I want it to ooze out and fill the ferrule/footing gap. After seating the broadhead, I turn it clockwise till the blade meets my mark on the footing.



The excess glue can be wiped off with Q Tips and a paper towel. Now to align the tip. I put the shaft across the rollers and orient the blade vertically. I then just sight down on top of the tip and make sure it meets the reference dot perfectly.



Now I just rotate the shaft 90 degrees, so the blade is horizontal and align it to the dot again. It is just that simple. I go back and check vertical alignment again and if all is well, let the arrow sit in the jig for about 15 mimutes.



I set the arrows aside,where they can't get bumped and let the epoxy fully cure.Even with a fast set epoxy, I let them cure 24 hours before shooting.If you use a slower glue, let it firm up some before aligning the tip. Before full cure, I check to make sure they still will unscrew and before putting them in the quiver, I put a small amount of blue Loctite on the adapter threads.

The tip alignment jig makes the alignment very precise and takes all guess work out of the equation. The truth is, the Tuffhead's ferrule is very true and if the adapter is also, they will be very close.It always pays to verify though. It is also a very simple matter and good insurance to double check tip alignment after a hit or miss in the field.

Thanks Again Jim.



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